Up into Snow

March 31, Thursday

Talk about luxury! We slept until quarter to eight,then had a lovely buffet breakfast, a treat that was included in the price of the room. The sun was shining brightly and we anticipated a great day. So we packed up and set out on the trail up to El Chileno campground/refugio.

The trail was clear at the beginning, but soon the weather turned to snow. Some hikers returning down the trail told us that the refugio was closed. (These refugios are closed because the season is ending.)

The higher we hiked the more snow we encountered.

Here I am at the junction of the trail leading to El Chileno campground

or to the Torres campground futher up the mountain.

At the campground everything was covered with wet snow, and more was coming down steadily. There were two other tents in the campground from the night before. The young couple from one of them told us that they had awakened in the morning to find two feet of snow over everything. They packed up and went down the trail. Sometime in the afternoon the other set of campers also packed up and left.

We set up the tent under some tall trees and found that was a mistake as snow "bombs" were falling on us as we worked. A low tree would have given some protection against this. D.S. cooked up a quick rice dish for lunch and we decided to hike up the trail for some distance, just for something to do that afternoon. This is definitely not like summer camping, sitting lazily around a campfire, reading, drinking coffee, making s'mores.

We hiked up toward the Torres campground for about an hour and half, and then decided to come back down. This picture was taken on the way back down.

We were alone in the campground that afternoon and evening. It was becoming quite cold. We sat on a little sheltered porch of the closed refugio, enclosing ourselves somewhat with some sheets of pressed board lying there, and cooked a supper of

pasta, plumped up with two cans of fishy

things. One was a can of squid which D.S. chopped up very fine, so the squiggly parts weren't noticeable.

Once in a while we got up and tramped in place to warm up our very cold feet. By 8:30 it was becoming dark and we retired to the tent and put on some wonderful DRY socks! Most of the snow had melted by that time, but the wind had grown colder. We climbed, fully clothed except for our Goretext jackets into our sleeping bags and talked for a few hours before falling asleep.

What a cold night that was! I was completely buried in my sleeping bag which had a hooded top, but found I could sleep only facing into the tent. If I faced the door, the cold wind coming under the fly made sleep impossible. It was during this night that something, a spider or some insect, walked over my face along the hairline, biting as it went. I'm just glad I wasn't awake for that!

A Wet Day on the Trail

March 30, Wednesday

Although it wasn't raining when we started out this morning, we did encounter several

showers. This was scheduled to be our longest hike, 11 km., so we were on our way by 8:45 a.m. after breakfast at the refugio.

The hike led along Lake Nordenskjold, and was not too strenuous in terms of up and down hills. There is always some of that up and down hiking, but like the hike to Cuernos, it was moderate today.

We stopped now and then for a bite to eat, especially enjoying that milk chocolate we had bought at the Cuernos refugio.

I had been hearing a noise I couldn't identify which revealed itself to us at one point: two strings of horses being led along the trail. They were going at quite a clip but we were able to step off the trail out of their way. This part of the park is part of a privately owned ranch. Plus, it is possible to hire horses to traverse these trails.

We had to cross several streams along the

way, and I mean without bridges. The Cuernos were visible again from our hiking path. By afternoon we were both walking in soaked, squishy shoes. Not the most comfortable experience!

In the afternoon we this passed through this desolate looking area, but just over the ridge we saw a very welcome sight: this rustic, but luxurious hotel complex. The grey building in the

forefront is still under construction and the red buildings beyond it are the hotel itself. This is the hotel Torres. We had intended to stay at either the refugio or the campground, which are beyond the hotel. But when I saw the hotel and thought about a comfy bed, a room impervious to rain and a hot shower, I told D.S., "I want to stay at the hotel! I don't care how much it costs!" He was agreeable to that and by 3 p.m. we were checked into the hotel and getting warmed up and cleaned up.

It was a splurge! The room was expensive, but worth it. The buffet dinner cost $45 USD each, and we realized later that the bottles of plain water we ordered for with our meals were $8 USD apiece! It was a good meal, and we sat near the fireplace.

During the night I heard rain pouring down heavily, and was grateful for a warm, dry bed.

A Special Evening

March 29, Tuesday

We had a leisurely breakfast of hot oatmeal and real coffee, packed up our tent and all our gear and were on our way to Los Cuernos refugio by 10:45. It was a good hike, with some rain, some sun. The trail was quite muddy in places. Today's hike was much more moderate in terms of climbs than yesterday's and included lots of this sort of scenery.

It's almost hard to believe that these are the same Cuernos we saw yesterday gleaming golden in the sun.

We arrived at the refugio and campground about 2:30 and picked out a good spot for our tent, under the branches of a low-hanging tree, and got it set up.

Then we went into the refugio where a wood stove was creating an island of warmth and cheer. There were several long plank tables lined with simple stools for us to sit on. By this time the weather was cold, windy and

rainy, with some heavy showers. We spent the rest of the afternoon by the stove, along with many other backpackers.

The refugio also has dorm rooms and free showers. We gladly took advantage of the showers, cleaned up and changed our clothes.

We didn't cook for ourselves this night, but had dinner in the refugio. Just when the dinner was being served the electric lights went out, and only the gas mantle lanterns remained to give us a bit of light. First course was a delicious cream soup. Second course was a bowl of something, but it was too dark to see what it was. I took a spoon full and found excellent scalloped potatoes along with some vegetables. Later I found a delicious chunk of chicken. Dessert was poached dried fruit compote.

Because of the wet weather we hung around the refugio that evening. A convivial atmosphere was created by the low light level, music, crowding next to one another, hearing lots of languages. People from all over were sharing their experiences, accepting one another, recognizing people from having seen them on the trail. It was a great evening, and one of the special experiences in this special time.

It was raining when we went to the tent and rained much of the night. Everything was very wet in the morning but by then the rain had stopped.

The Frances Valley

March 28, Monday

During the night I heard a crash of thunder and thought we were going to get a storm. In the morning D.S. told me that it had been ice falling from the glacier on Paine Grande. I had slept well until about 2 a.m. and then rather restlessly.

After a leisurely beginning and a breakfast of oatmeal and honey, we enjoyed a real cup of coffee, made in an ingenious push pot that included a generous sized cup and all packed neatly into one smallish container.

At 10:15 we got on the trail up the Frances

Valley. This was not as clear a trail as yesterday's and sometimes led over a boulder field. It's also continuously uphill, sometimes pretty steep.

About 1:15 we arrived at an open area from which we could see the surrounding mountain peaks. It was more than spectacular. We were blessed with sunshine there, though we had had light to moderate rain on the trail coming up. We took many

pictures.

This particular picture was taken before we reached the top open area. It was a glimpse of the grandeur to come.

One of the amazing aspects of this mountain panorama was the fact that on our far left was the valley we had ascended, green and only getting ready for the fall season. Scanning from left to right took us first past

Paine Grande, a massive mountain with

glaciers and snowfields. Paine Grande was

totally wintry, even at the end of the summer season. It made us wonder what it would be like in the spring. It also was mist shrouded, reinforcing the image of winter.

When we looked directly in front of us, we saw the transition to a more moderate scene.

On this picture from left to right you see The Spear, and right next to it a little lower, The Dagger, and then the more massive Mask. They have snow on their lower reaches. Behind them in the further distance is the Fortress, and coming to the right are the Cuernos, The Horns. One of the Horns is more or less hidden behind the prominent one here. Yesterday's picture showed them as separate. At their foot was a treed area, still very green.

Both of Los Cuernos are massive yellow

"monuments" topped by black rock. D.S. could tell you more accurately what kind of rock they are. I just know that they were breathtaking in the brilliant sunshine that we enjoyed there. They shone in that light.

I was sitting looking at Paine Grande when D.S. called this Cuernos "the Prow" referring to the Prow of an ocean liner. I looked over my shoulder just as some light clouds scudded past the "Prow" and had the vertiginous sensation that IT not the clouds were moving, and that it was coming directly towards us.

Exhilarated by this fantastic climax of our hike up the Frances Valley, we turned around and started back down. The picture of the "prow" was taken on our way back down to the campground.

This is a view of the rushing Frances River.

Campground meals are quick and easy, this night a quick rice dish. I had a quick wash-up at an overflow pipe. Very cold, but it felt really good to clean up. Another quiet evening in the campground and to bed thankful for a wonderful day and a great hike.

In Torres Del Paine, at last!

March 27, Sunday

This was a long, full day. We got up early, just after 6 a.m. and had the usual hostel breakfast: Nescafé, a round flat bun with marmalade and yogurt. The bus to Torres del Paine picked us up at 7:20, and then stopped at other hostels to pick up passengers. The ride to the park took about two hours.

There is an entry fee of $30 USD to visit the park, paid at the entrance. The bus then drove us on to the second stop where we waited for the catamaran, which for $22 each took us over Lake Peho to the Peho refugio and camp. This is our view of Los Cuernos from the catamaran.

We had a bit of lunch there, used the washrooms, and were ready to begin our hike. We had been warned in a good talk on what to expect in the park, given at the

Erratic Rock hostel in Puerto Natales that

some of the refugios in the park were already closed for the season, and that means no washrooms would be available at those locations. So just before I went to the "Ladies" D.S. said, "Steal toilet paper!" I wound a large wad into both pockets in my jacket, and the lump is noticeable on my right side. It was very good advice, and the t.p. came in handy for the next several days.

The hike to Italian Camp took us about 3 1/2

hours, quite a bit longer than listed on the

map. We didn't hurry, but took time to enjoy the scenery along the way.

An older couple, about my age, were hiking in the opposite direction. After they had passed, D.S. said to me, "You're not the only old geezer on the trail!" A middle-aged woman coming along behind them said to us, "How old do you think they are?" I said, "About my age, 70." And she replied, "He's 74, and she's just 70. This is her birthday present." It was their daughter.

The views along the trail were spectacular, and the weather was beautiful. It was windy, and not warm, but excellent for hiking and viewing.

The trail was worn into the soil about 6" deep in many places. There were some elevation changes but this was not a challenging hike. Nevertheless, by the time we reached this bridge, I was really ready to say that I'd had enough for the day.

This swaying bridge had a sign on either end,

"Only Two People on the Bridge at any time." It wasn't scary though, as it had protective "chicken wire" fencing along the sides.

Across the Frances River on this bridge lay the Italian Camp. There were no services here at all, and no electricity. Campfires were not permitted in the campgrounds when we were there. We found a place to pitch our tent, cooked up some pasta, added

some canned fish and a little cheese, and

that was supper, with some yogurt for dessert.

We had a visitor soon after supper, this good looking fox. He was evidently a regular visitor, checking for scraps or handouts, and seemed quite at home.

D.S. had two handy lamps that fastened onto our heads by a stretchy band. With that light we worked a crossword puzzle, and then turned off the lights and simply sat in the dark enjoying the peaceful evening. I'm greatly comforted by the knowledge that this park does not have bears. Later we climb into our sleeping bags thinking we'd had a very good day, our first in Torres Del Paine National Park.

Just a few Words

Missed posting yesterday because my dear Sis arrived by plane from Arizona. So I went to Calgary to pick her up, and that basically took all afternoon. The morning was spent trying to whip the house into decent shape for her inspection--she's a very good housekeeper, much neater than I am!

In the evening we had the first rehearsal for the Mendelssohn Psalm 42--a chorale work which will be performed this weekend.

When we got up this morning, we found the landscape transformed--back to the middle of winter again, at least 4" of snow. I asked Jim how much and he said, "Too Much!"

So with all these distractions going on, no blogging got done. Hope to continue telling you about our very lovely and exciting trip tomorrow. See you then!

Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales

March 25, Friday

Up around 7, shower, pack, eat breakfast and take a taxi to the airport. Took the time to visit a Café at the airport and have a REAL cup of coffee, after too many cups of instant Nescafé. Ordered a café cortado, not knowing what cortado means. Judging by the miniature glass cup of coffee, I think it means "short" because it was a short cup of coffee.

Had a good flight to Punta Arenas, arriving by 3 p.m. Got a taxi into the city to the address given for Erratic Rock 3, where we have a reservation. The whole building is shown in yesterday's post, and here is the door. Way up on the left is a buzzer, which we rang. After a while someone buzzed the door, and we tried to open it. They buzzed again, and we pulled harder. A third time, with no better luck. Someone came down the stairs and opened the door for us: opening it inward!

Up the stairs we came into a small apartment above the bakery. Living room, dining room used as an office. We explained who we were and were greeted enthusiastically by Pato, with whom I had had email contact when reserving the room(s), having asked for a single room for each of us. Pato is not 100% in English, and the room we were shown had one double bed. We asked about the other room, and found that this was it. There were three bedrooms: this double, a dorm room with about 5 beds in it, and the room for Pato, his wife and small daughter. Dear Son solved the problem by volunteering to sleep on the floor in his sleeping bag.

After dropping off our gear in this bedroom, we went out for a walk to reconnoiter the city. Just two blocks away is the house that belonged to Bruce Chatwin's uncle, a connection that drew Bruce to this area.

We found a bus station and arranged for transport to Puerto Natales on Saturday morning. Just around the corner was a nice looking hostel, and made a reservation for Monday night on our return trip. Then we explored the city, mainly the area around a large central square. Like Santiago, Punta Arenas is full of people walking and selling from the sidewalks. There are also so many stray dogs in these cities. The amazing thing is that the sidewalks are not covered in "doggy do."

For supper we stopped in a very small café called The Pines, appropriate because the interior, the counters and the stools are all made of pine. We each ordered a hamburg and burst into laughter when it came. The hamburg and bun covered the entire plate! That's about 9" to 10" across! DS had avocado on his and I had cheese on mine. They certainly satisfied our appetites!

There was a darling young girl there, probably about 7 years old, who couldn't resist flirting with us. She said shyly, as if to herself, "What is my name?" in English. Got herself a drink of juice, and gave a gusty sigh of contentment.

We bought a few supplies for camping, walked around the park and down to the waterfront. Back to the hostel as it was beginning to get dark.

March 26, Saturday

Had a brief breakfast at the hostel, with Pato keeping us company. He made REAL coffee as he had learned that visitors prefer that to the instant Nescafé. But, somehow or other, that automatic drip pot produced lukewarm coffee! Don't know how that's possible, but appreciated his efforts. He bade us a fond farewell. This whole experience here at this hostel started out seeming kind of weird, but we ended feeling very good about it.

Passed through much country like this on the way to Puerto Natales by bus. Reminds me very much of Alberta. Open country, with some cattle, but very little settlement. That's actually a large flock of flamingoes on the lake.

We arrived at Puerto Natales around noon and walked to Erratic Rock (the original) where Pato had reserved a room for us for tonight. Again there was some mix up and they had booked us into the dorm room. We

both prefer a private, to avoid noisy roommates. But Paul, the owner, (from Eugene, Oregon) looked out for us. There are oodles of hostels in Puerto Natales, and he found us a room at one just a block and half away.

Carla, the owner, soon found us as we headed over there, and we made arrangements with her for tonight and for the bus to the park tomorrow morning. We also reserved a room for our return trip.

This hostel was called "Austral Glacier" which we found out was a very appropriate name, as it was COLD!! D.S. said he would characterize it as "an icebox, besieged by dogs." There was a small gas heater in the living room, a small gas heater in the dining room, and that was it. The hot water was on demand. I had the first shower, but chickened out when it came to washing my hair. It was just too cold!

We had a room upstairs with three single beds, and they were absolutely the best beds and bedding we had on the entire trip.

At three that afternoon we went to Erratic Rock for their free talk about what you need for hiking in the park, what to expect, etc. Very informative.

Took a good walk all around the main shopping area and bought some more supplies for the camping part of our trip. Again, like Santiago and Punta Arenas, the sidewalks are filled with people out walking. Toward the end of the evening we were down by the waterfront and saw these lovely, black headed swans. I'd never heard of such a thing before.

Then did a good repack of our backpacks in preparation for actually going to the park tomorrow!